Portrait
of an Indian Lady, Daughter of a Cacique, 1757
Students
begin by answering the questions from the criteria. The teacher may
provide some information given below if needed, but clues from the picture
should provide most of the information.
Information about
this portrait:
The young woman
depicted here is an indigenous noblewoman. The inscription says that
she is Sebastiana Ynes Josepha de San Augustin, sixteen years old, and
she is about to enter a convent. This young woman's father was an indigenous
governor. The portrait was painted in 1757, and it reflects, again,
the blending of cultures in New Spain. Her white blouse is a traditional
indigenous huipil. Over it, she wears a bodice
decorated with two-headed eagles, a European motif, and Chinese silk
ribbons, called "galloons." The sleeve
of her huipil is embroidered with pearls, and
pearls decorate the double band that fastens her
hair.
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The inscription
says that the portrait represents Sebastiana Ynés Josepha
de San Augustin, the 16-year-old-daughter of Mathías Alexo
Martinez and Thomasa de Dios y Mendiola.
The mesoamerican
cultures in Mexico had sophisticated political and social hierarchies
at the time of the Conquest. Some local rulers retained their
rank and power after the Conquest, though subject to Viceregal
authority.
This young
woman's father was one such ruler, and as such, a powerful and
respected man. His high status enabled his daughter to enter an
elite Catholic convent run exclusively for indigenous women.
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Historical Information
relevant to this portrait:
Huipil
A traditional, woven
Mayan blouse, embroidered with patterns distinctive of a particular
town or region. A woman's choice of huipil has symbolic and ceremonial
significance, as well as being an expression of fashion. The Mayans
believe that what one wears has magical transformational properties
with the wearer.
For more information:
Galloon
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A narrow band
or braid used as trimming and commonly made of lace, metallic
thread, or embroidery.
[French galon,
from Old French galonner, to decorate the hair with ribbons.]
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Pearls
These pearls may
have been imported from China, but natural pearls were so rare and expensive
that they were reserved almost exclusively for the noble and very rich.
Both the Incas and
Aztecs prized pearls for their beauty and magical powers. Spanish explorers
of the New World found the natives in possession of rich pearl fisheries.
Along both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of Central America, the Spanish
forced slaves to dive for pearls so the pearls in this painting may
be from that area. The English colonizers along North America's Atlantic
coast and French explorers to the north and west, all found native Americans
wearing pearls, and they discovered freshwater pearls in the Ohio, Mississippi,
and Tennessee River basins. So many gems were exported to Europe that
the New World quickly gained the appellation "Land of Pearls."
(Ward,
2001)
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detail
of the pearls decorating her hair
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detail
of the pearls
decorating her sleeve
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For more information:
Fans
By the 15th and
16th centuries, Chinese artists began making folding fans. Previously
Chinese fans were stiff circles or made of feathers. These folding fans
were about 12 inches to 14 inches long, including the ribs and more
than half the surface was covered by the mounted paper. The 18th and
19th centuries in China saw the production of fans solely for the export
market. These fans were made by the Chinese to cater for 'barbarian'
tastes and were not used by the Chinese themselves.
The first folding
fans were reserved for Royalty and the nobility and, as expensive toys,
they were regarded as a status symbol. Whiles their "montures"
(i.e. sticks and guards) were made from materials such as ivory, mother
of pearl and tortoiseshell, often carved and pierced and ornamented
with silver, gold and precious stones, the leaves were well painted
by craftsmen who gradually amalgamated into guilds.
For more information: